Mature Traveler’s Guide to Northern Thailand: Tips for Mobility, Transportation, and Packing

Introduction to Northern Thailand for Mature Adventurers

Northern Thailand is a destination that can fulfill any traveler's need for adventure, even senior travelers. There is much to love about Thailand; it is my happy place. My husband and I have been there five times, and we plan to return as soon as we can.

As much as I am ready to sing its praises, I need to add some words of caution for older travelers. Here, I discuss the challenges of getting around Northern Thailand for mature travelers like me (age 74) and my husband (age 76). If my information doesn't dissuade you, and I hope it doesn't, continue to the next section, where I discuss how to prepare for your trip to Northern Thailand and what to pack.

While Northern Thailand may not be the best destination for some senior adventurers with mobility problems, don't be discouraged yet. My husband is the perfect example of how an older traveler can still enjoy Thailand. Basically, he's a mess. He has a very bad back (half metal), an ankle and shin full of screws and metal, and two not-so-great knees. Oh yes, he also has a heart condition for which he takes medication.

Despite this, we just returned from a two-month trip to Northern Thailand that we took in November and December of 2022, and we had (another) unforgettable journey full of new adventures. So, let's begin by examining the challenges that older travelers face.

Challenges in Getting Around Northern Thailand

Thailand has an edge to it because of the contrast between its exotic beauty and gritty, broken infrastructure. COVID-19 greatly impacted the region, and we found that the infrastructure, always needing attention, was even worse than before. For example, in Chiang Mai, numerous buildings were empty and in disrepair, with trash accumulating around many of them and on the sidewalks. Even in pre-pandemic times, sidewalks were a challenge to navigate. So, if you have mobility problems, you will face some tough obstacles (literally).

Many of the sidewalks have crumbling, uneven concrete with large, deep holes that are dangerous for even the most agile person. If you need a wheelchair to get around, you will not be able to use it on most sidewalks; the streets are no better as they are jammed with fast-moving vehicles and potholes.

Additionally, parked scooters, food carts, and vendors take the challenge up a notch for you when negotiating the sidewalks. On top of all that, there are the roughly ten million tourists who visit Chiang Mai each year trying to find space on the same sidewalks and roads.

My husband has back problems, and he was limited in the distance that he could walk in the city center. We knew in advance how far he could walk and made transportation plans to get where we needed to go if it was outside his "walking zone."

To get around, you can always flag down a songthaew, a red or white truck with plank seats in the bed to convey multiple passengers, or a tuk tuk, an open-air three-wheeled vehicle—like a crazy, motorized rickshaw. Both types of rides can be challenging to climb in and out of.

Additionally, many tuk tuk drivers manically whip their vehicles in and out of traffic; I think they enjoy scaring newbie tourists. My husband cracked a rib and partially collapsed a lung after our tuk tuk driver went around a corner too fast and came down rather hard off the curb. My husband’s side hit the metal railing next to the seat, and he had trouble breathing for the next few days.

Thailand has taxis as well as Grab, which like Uber in the United States, has an easy-to-use app for arranging pickups (in English!). Another option similar to Grab is BOLT, which we never used. On previous trips, we would flag down tuk tuks to get around the bigger towns, but on this trip, we started to depend on Grab.

Another plus to this service (and taxis) is that you don't haggle with the driver over the price as you do with tuk tuk and songthaew drivers. You know the price from the app before you get into the vehicle. Haggling wears me down after a while, but the tuk tuk drivers expect it. If you don't, you may pay more than double the normal fare.

To be transparent, I need to tell you that my husband and I sometimes rent scooters to get around Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. We are experienced motorcycle riders. So, unless you are skilled riders, please don't rent a scooter. It may look like fun, but it is very dangerous, as underscored by the large number of motorcycle rider fatalities in Thailand each year.

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Transportation to tourist destinations can be booked through tour agencies located throughout the city and in most hotels. Tours generally involve a minivan and other passengers. However, you can also book private transportation or at least smaller vehicles (fewer people) to get to the destinations. Grab drivers can be booked for longer, personalized trips as well. The front desk at your hotel or hostel can give you some excellent advice on trips and arrange them for you as well.

For mobility-challenged travelers, you may face some hiccups at the airports. You most likely will fly to Bangkok and make a connection to the north. We found that on some flights, you have to go up and down stairs to a bus that takes you to/from the airplane/terminal. I am in relatively good shape, but juggling a carry-on and a bag down steep, narrow metal stairs was a little disconcerting. I did not see anyone with a wheelchair, but I have read that they have special equipment to accommodate passengers needing extra help.

Expecting elevators in your hotel? No such luck. Most Northern Thailand accommodations do not have elevators. In fact, in the five times that we have visited Northern Thailand, we have never stayed in a hotel with an elevator, nor have I ever seen one. That would be fine if there were only one or two floors, but we have stayed in some hotels with four and five levels. Therefore, we always request the first floor when making reservations; we know there will not always be someone available to help with our luggage, and we want to avoid going up and down stairs (often with different size steps to challenge you further) multiple times a day. However, if you stay in a Hilton, Marriott, or a high end hotel, there will be elevators. We tend to stay in clean, nice (but elevator-less) hotels averaging around $20 a night.

So, you may not want to go on long hikes up mountains, ride elephants (no one should), careen around mountain curves on a motorcycle, or bicycle around the countryside. No worry. Northern Thailand has hundreds of stunning temples, bright, exotic gardens, fabulous restaurants, local galleries, and bustling markets that are accessible to all travelers.

Booking Your Flight to Thailand

Booking a flight is a hard-fought battle—it's time-consuming, exhausting, nerve-wracking, and scary; worst of all, in the end, you don't feel like you've won. Did I get the best fare? Should I wait and keep looking? What if I change my mind? Have I wasted my money? No matter what I say, you'll probably still go through the emotional ups and downs of getting your flight booked. Does it help to know that you're not alone?

Here are my suggestions to help you through this.

First, fly business or premium coach. I know this sounds so snobby, but I recommend doing whatever you can to fly business class. Flying to Europe? I have no problem with coach class (for the most part), but flying to Asia is a whole different story. The trip from the United States to Thailand is painfully long, and it hits the highest level of travel torture.

We saved frequent flier miles from charging as much as we could on our credit card. We had enough to use points for two, one-way business class tickets. If you want to use frequent flier points, you have to book your Thailand flights as much in advance as possible because it is a popular destination, especially from November through January, as that is the coolest time of year in a very hot country.

I booked in January 2022 for a November 1, 2022, departure. I checked United Airlines constantly to see when those flights opened up for booking and then used Sky Miles for our departure flights. I had a few miles left, but not enough for return flights. So, I had to book the return separately. I manically checked multiple booking sites for weeks, such as Expedia, Google Flights, Momondo, Skyscanner, Kayak, and TripAdvisor. I found a number of booking sites that claim that they provide low-cost business-class airfare. I had never used one before, but, finally, I thought I'd take a chance.

For our return flight, I used Skylux Travel Service for the first time. I read reviews of this service, and it seemed legit. They claim, “Our fares and contracts are only available to us because of the relationship we have with the major airlines ... This is how you get the absolute best price and value” (Skyluxtravel.com).

The process was a little strange, and, honestly, it made me nervous at first, but it worked out fine in the end. You work with the same agent throughout, and the man that helped us used a combination of miles and money to get our return ticket. It still cost us $3,000 each; however, that is much cheaper than the $6,000 to $7,000 that I would have paid if I had booked it on my own. Pricey? Yes. Was it worth it? Absolutely.

Our itinerary was from San Antonio, Texas, to Houston, Texas, to Taipei, Taiwan, to Bangkok, Thailand, and finally to Chiang Mai, Thailand. We were originally scheduled to fly from Taiwan directly to Chiang Mai, but EVA Airlines canceled all the direct flights to Chiang Mai. So we had to fly to Bangkok and then on to Chiang Mai, adding hours to the trip because we had to schedule enough time to go through customs in Bangkok rather than at our final destination.

In total, we were in transit for about 35 hours (not including the travel to/from the airport and checking in two hours in advance). The longest leg was from Houston to Taipei—a claustrophobic, muscle-spasming 16.5 hours. I can’t imagine being squeezed into a coach class seat with limited seat recline and no elbow room for so many hours. In fact, my husband's bad back would have kept us home if we couldn't fly business class. Even in the large reclining business class seats, it's difficult to get comfortable. But at least we could stretch out much more easily than those folks squeezed in coach class.

Secondly, sit away from the front row. Now that you have your tickets, you want to find the best seats. SeatGuru is a good website that shows the aircraft's layout, which seats you should avoid, and which seats are good. I found that children are usually put in the front row with parents because there is more legroom in the first row; it is easier for the parents to move around.

On almost all of our flights, the babies in business class were in one of the following modes: screaming, talking loudly, or sleeping. I can't imagine what it was like in coach class. So, I recommend that you do not sit too close to the front row unless crying babies don’t bother you. Hey, I was ready to start crying by the twelfth hour in the tin can, so I certainly don’t blame the children.

6 Items to Pack in Your Carry-on

Once you have booked your tickets, the brainstorming begins on what to pack. To help you, I provide suggestions on what to bring in your carry-on besides the obvious passports, chargers, etc. But before I discuss what to pack, let me first mention the carry-on itself. I found that a carry-on with outside pockets is the best for long distance travel. It makes it easier to access a book/electronic reader, toiletries, etc. I actually took an old, two-wheeled carry-on for this trip rather than my newer, slick aluminum carry-on. The old one was cloth and had two pockets in the front that made access much easier than opening an entire suitcase. Here's a better, newer, and affordable version of my carry-on: SwissGear Sion Softside Expandable Roller Luggage, Black, Carry-On 21-Inch

1. Medications

Pack all essential medications. This is the most important piece of advice for older travelers. Pack the medications that you'll need for your entire trip. What if your suitcase gets lost for a week? Would you be able to get by without your medications? My husband had a big bag of pills that took up precious space in his carry-on, but he made room for them because they were essential for his health. It just isn't worth the risk to be without your necessary medications.

2. Panty Liners

Pack panty liners. The biggest annoyance (to me) with long distance flying is the toilet, the minuscule airline toilet. Hey, you won’t be able to avoid it. So, to make your flying a little more bearable, I strongly suggest that you (women and men) pack panty liners. You are flying for hours. You are already feeling grungy after ten numbing hours strapped into your seat, and you have at least that many hours to go. You cannot change your undies in the airplane bathroom—at least, I cannot do the gymnastics required to change anything in there. Plus, the floor is always a little “damp,” and I don’t want any of my clothes touching it. So, I always bring a few panty liners along to “freshen up.” Just change out the liner every few hours, and you won’t feel quite as icky. (I wish I had learned this trick earlier in life.)

3. Toiletries Kit

Carry a kit. You definitely want to bring a travel toothbrush/toothpaste, face wash, face cream, lip cream, and a small deodorant. Yes, you can buy really small travel deodorants; you'll still need to pack your regular deodorant in your suitcase, but the small one works perfectly for your flights. The face cream saves your face from the effects of zero humidity during the flight—the same with the lip cream. Of course, in business class, they give you a little kit, which includes the above accessories but no deodorant.

4. Earplugs

Pack earplugs. Earplugs are essential for the flight and your stay in Thailand. Foam ones will work, but they are pushed deep into the ear and are uncomfortable and itchy (for me). I prefer silicone ones. They help block out the loud droning of the aircraft, the talking, sneezing, and coughing noises, and, of course, the crying babies as their inner ears explode in pain. I also download podcasts to my phone and put an earbud in one ear and an earplug in the other. It's a great way to block other noises and listen to some of my favorite podsters (Adam Buxton is great). Of course, headphones are provided, but it is difficult to sleep with the clunky headphones on—earbuds work better.

5. Slip-on Shoes

Bring/wear slip-on shoes. I loathe airplane toilets (here I go again!). I know that no one loves them, but I really try to limit my trips to the toilet to the point that I make myself uncomfortable. Again, that wet floor is so disgusting. Open-toed shoes are just not an option for me on a plane. Once on the aircraft, if you are not already wearing some, you'll want to change into slip-on shoes that provide full protection around your feet. Plus, it makes it easier to slip them on and off while curling up in your seat (sorry, only business class passengers and small children get to do the curl). These shoes will be handy off the plane as well (discussed below).

6. Inflatable Pillow

An inflatable pillow will make your flight more bearable. The flight attendant will give you one pillow, but it is nice to have something to go over the armrest to cushion your ribs. It takes up no room when deflated, and it will also come in handy once off the plane, especially if you are one of those people like me who needs two pillows to sleep. I forgot my inflatable pillow in 2022, and I refused to buy one because I had a perfectly good one at home. Bad decision. I disappoint myself sometimes.

6 Items to Pack

Let's move on to the items you'll want with you in Thailand. Here I explain the six items that I believe are essential to pack in your suitcase or carry-on. A couple of them are repeats from the previous section, indicating that they are doubly important! I've come up with this list after numerous trips to Asia where I learned the hard way.

1. Clean, Unwrinkled, Unmarked Currency

This is the most important recommendation that I can give you—bring clean, unwrinkled, and unmarked dollars, euros, etc. The best exchange rate is with cash at money exchange kiosks. They will not take a bill with any mark or tear on it. I had some almost perfect $50 bills with slight pen marks on the edges. They would not take them. Obviously, no ripped bills are accepted. I read that the larger the bill, the better the exchange rate, but I didn’t find that to be true. There are ATMs everywhere, but they charge a large fee—about $7 for each transaction.

2. Easy Slip-on/off Shoes

Thais take off their shoes before entering their homes and sometimes before entering a business. We were in a hill tribe village that had a small grocery/hardware store, and everyone going in took off their shoes before entering.

You won’t find that in most city stores, but you will find some hotels that expect you to remove your shoes before entering your room. One hotel we stayed at in Chiang Mai made you take your shoes off at the front entrance of the hotel and then use a pair of rubber ones provided by the hotel or walk barefooted up to your room. All temples require that you remove your shoes before entering. Because we had to remove our shoes for a number of reasons, I suggest that you bring a pair that you can slip in and out of easily. Skechers has a number of comfortable shoes that slip on easily. Also, bring a pair of flip-flops so that you have something to put on once you are in your hotel room.

3. Your Favorite Face Cream/Cleanser/Deodorant

The good news about Thailand is that you can probably find almost anything that you need. Many things are cheaper (prescription drugs, e.g., antibiotics), but some are more expensive. For example, I needed some face cream, but I had trouble finding one without whiteners in it. Name brands were expensive. So, you should bring what you need for the duration of your trip to make life a little easier.

4. Washcloths

I always use a washcloth, but we were never provided washcloths in the two months that we were there—not even in the one high-end hotel we stayed at. In fact, many places didn’t even give us a hand towel, only a bath towel. You can buy washcloths there if you need some. We bought a few at Lotus, a large grocery store chain in Chiang Mai.

5. Earplugs

Earplugs are also mentioned in the section on what to bring on the aircraft, but they are so necessary for travel around the country. The cities are noisy, with people going in and out, talking and shouting, and slamming doors. Traffic is noisy, although Thais don’t often use their horns—yea! In the city and the countryside, you have barking dogs and crowing roosters to challenge your sleep. I prefer the silicone/wax earplugs over the foam ones. They are more comfortable to wear as they go over the ear hole rather than in it. The foam ones are too itchy for me.

6. Inflatable Pillow

I also mentioned the importance of bringing an inflatable pillow on the aircraft (which I forgot to do). However, I wish I had brought one for our hotel stays as well; most of the hotels we stayed in provided just one pillow per person. I like to sleep with a second pillow, but I had to make do without one most of the time. An inflatable pillow would have made me more comfortable. Be sure to get one with a soft, washable cover.

Wrapping Up

Before any international trip, travelers should know the challenges they might face in a foreign country, especially if the travelers are older with mobility issues. I hope that I clarified some of those challenges and that the advice I provide on how to get a ticket, what to bring in your carry-on, and what to pack in your suitcase helps prepare you for a great adventure.