Never in Florence: Tips for Surviving a Visit to Firenze

I fell in love with Florence at the age of 10 and have travelled widely since, but somehow I always return to this most magical of cities.

(c) A Harrison

(c) A Harrison

On Surviving Italian Curses

The mendicante's language was both florid and impressive. Her words swirled around me and along the eternal queue waiting to enter the Uffizi. At least the performance provided some entertainment to fill the hours.

Not understanding Italian, I remain unclear as to what curses were being showered down on me. Yet it dawned on me that Florence is a city of guidebooks; everywhere stand tourists with guidebooks in hand, none of which mention how to manage being cursed by one in full eloquent flight. At the front of each guide book should be a list of what of not to do in this city—in bold letters.

Queues for sights such as Michelangelo's David can prove ridiculously long (c) A Harrison

Queues for sights such as Michelangelo's David can prove ridiculously long (c) A Harrison

Avoid the Queues

Occasionally, standing in a queue can be entertaining. More often it becomes soul destroying, and taints the pleasure of whatever art gallery or museum waits at the other end. Depending upon the time of year, queues in Florence can stretch for hours—I have seen the line for the Uffizi stretch back to the Ponte Vecchio.

There are a few alternatives. Arrive before a place opens, and with luck you may be amongst the first inside. Better still, for a while at least the gallery will be largely empty—I often head to the furtherest rooms and work backwards, against the flow.

I tend to avoid rainy days, when museums and galleries seem to be at their most crowded. Always double check opening times (which are notoriously haphazard in Italy), what days a place is closed, and if it closes during siesta.

Alternatively, tickets can be pre-booked for a set time of admission, either online or at the place in question—if the queues are ridiculously long, it is well worth the extra money. I did this successfully at the Uffizi. After buying my ticket, I enjoyed a stroll through the Oltrarno, visited a church or two, partook of a leisurely lunch—and still entered ahead of people I had seen in the queue three hours earlier.

There are relatively empty museums not far from the crowds of the Duomo. (c) A Harrison

There are relatively empty museums not far from the crowds of the Duomo. (c) A Harrison

Don't Miss Florence's Forgotten Museums

People who have been waiting in a queue for hours rarely take kindly when asked to step to one side so one can actually view a painting. In some places the exhibits become next to impossible to see. With so many museums in Florence, however, there are always less-crowded alternatives.

The Casa Buonarroti, for example, has amongst its treasures Michelangelo’s first sculptures, done when he was about 15 years old and living in the Medici household. At the Museo di Storia della Scienzi are the telescopes with which Galileo discovered four of Jupiter’s moons. The Horne Museum boasts works by Giotto, Lippi and Giambologna, as well as period furniture and domestic trappings. Virtually behind the Duomo, the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo is often empty, especially of a morning. Here are the original sculptures once displayed in the Duomo and Baptistery, including Michelangelo’s Pieta, originally intended for the artist’s own tomb.

Art lessons in a quiet back street of Florence (c) A Harrison

Art lessons in a quiet back street of Florence (c) A Harrison

Don't Forget Much of the Artwork Is (Almost) Free

Florence is a city of churches, and not all charge admission prices. At the Chiesa di Ognissanti are paintings by Ghirlandaio, (in one can be seen the young Amerigo Vespucci, after whom the New World was named) as well as works by Boticelli, Tito and The School of Giotto. In a side chapel is the habit worn by St Francis when he received the stigmata.

The Bascilica della Santissima Annunziata boasts paintings by Fra Bartolomeo, including one reputedly finished by an angel. Inside the Santa Felicita are some masterpieces of 16th century Florentine painting. The Chiesa di Santa Maria del Carmine is famous for the frescos by Masaccio.

Aside from the artwork, remember to look at the buildings themselves; many are masterpieces of design. It becomes too easy to forget to notice the colours in the marble floors and pillars, the craftsmanship in the designs of even lintels and pews. At those places which don't charge, I usually light a candle or buy a card, my small gift to the maintenance of such wonders.

Simply wander - you'll be surprised at what you will find! (c) A. Harrison

Simply wander - you'll be surprised at what you will find! (c) A. Harrison

Simple beauty in all the buildings, Florence (c) A. Harrison

Simple beauty in all the buildings, Florence (c) A. Harrison

Stop Being a Tourist!

With limited time, the days can pass in a blur of churches and museums. Why not take a few hours off from being a tourist? Perhaps buy a gelato and stand on the Ponte Vecchio, dreaming of buying gold from the overpriced jewellers who have made the bridge their home since medieval times. On the other side of the Arno, the quiet streets of the Oltrarno are full of artisan workshops and medieval buildings. This is a perfect place to imitate the locals and choose a place to enjoy a coffee with some schiacciata alla fiorentina, or maybe a glass of wine and some crostini, as tourists hobble by on tired feet, guidebook in hand.

Sun-baking Florentine style (c) A. Harrison

Sun-baking Florentine style (c) A. Harrison

Don't Forget to Go Outdoors

I always love visiting a local alimenatri and stocking up on goodies for a picnic. The Boboli Gardens, behind the Pitti Palace are a perfect place, being exquisitely maintained and filled with artwork and grottos to explore. Florence’s public park, the Cascine, was once the Medici dairy farm before it became a hunting reserve. Shelley wrote his Ode to The West Wind here, and a statue marks the spot where the Maharajah of Kohlapur, who died in Florence in 1870, was cremated.

Another option is to catch the number seven bus up to Fiesole, an old Etruscan hill-town above Florence. For the price of a bus ticket, you get a tour past the icons of Florence as the bus winds through the city up to Fiesole. This ancient town boasts Etruscan ruins, a beautiful Franciscan monastery, and stunning views over Florence. Villas built by wealthy Florentines in the Renaissance dot the countryside, including the Villa Medici. In the forest above the town is a plaque marking the spot where Leonardo once tried to fly. For the energetic, the walk back down into Florence passes forgotten churches encompasses the beauty of the Tuscan countryside.

No Backpacks in Florence

Unless you wish to spend all day being searched whenever you enter a museum or church, before being made to check your backpack into a cloak room (you won’t be allowed to carry it through a museum or art gallery), leave back packs and bulky day bags at the hotel. Bottles of water are also often confiscated. Handbags, however, are allowed through, as are camera bags. Besides, you won't look like a tourist (or at least, with a decent camera bag, you'll look like a professional one).

Lights at dusk, Florence (c) A Harrison

Lights at dusk, Florence (c) A Harrison

Florence: Always Have a Plan B

Places might be crowded, it might start raining, somewhere might suddenly close—there are always other options which don't involve traipsing across to the other side of the city. I always have a list of things I want to see and do. I don't always stick to it, but it's great to have when the unexpected happens. In a place such as Florence, simply wandering is always a great alternative, whether its discovering a perfumery running since medieval times, or a workshop which restores artworks. Or simply sit somewhere, and watch the world go by as you gather your breath.

And the lady so full of colourful language? Perhaps guessing I don't believe in curses, her flow of expletives came to an abrupt end, and she simply wandered away, cornered another tourist, and started again.

The Ponte Vecchio, Florence (c) A Harrison

The Ponte Vecchio, Florence (c) A Harrison

© 2014 Anne Harrison


Anne Harrison (author) from Australia on May 13, 2017:

I so agree with you Spanish Food - I think the two of us would travel well together!

Lena Durante from San Francisco Bay Area on May 09, 2017:

Fabulous tips. I totally agree with taking some time to NOT be a tourist. When I'm traveling, I always like to set aside an afternoon to park myself in a cafe or at a bar with a beverage and do some people-watching. Sometimes, you end up making friends with random locals and getting really excellent recommendations!

Anne Harrison (author) from Australia on June 10, 2016:

Hope I've inspired you to take a trip to Florence soon.

Ced Yong from Asia on June 09, 2016:

Very good tips. Esp abt the backpacks.

Anne Harrison (author) from Australia on May 07, 2015:

22 years ago, SheilaMilne - time to go back! One good thing about queues is that it means more people are travelling and seeing new cultures, which can only be a good thing. THanks for stopping by.

SheilaMilne from Kent, UK on May 07, 2015:

I have nothing but great memories of Florence but I do remember a colleague complaining about the queues and struggling to see art in art galleries. We didn't experience that but, sadly, the reason was that we visited not too long after the Uffizi bombing. There were NO queues. That's 22 years ago now - gosh!

Anne Harrison (author) from Australia on December 13, 2014:

Hi iris, I first went to Italy when I was ten, and it has changed a lot. Much as I hate crowds, I can't complain when people travel for it one of the best ways to bring us all together.

Thanks for stopping by, and I hope you make it back some day

Cristen Iris from Boise, Idaho on December 13, 2014:

Wow Anne, much has changed since I was in Florence some thirty years ago. I don't remember long waits and crowded museums. And I can't say that I've ever been publicly dressed down by a gypsy. What I do remember from my time there is that it is lovely, as your pictures demonstrate, and that it is rich in history and culture. This was a wonderful reminder of Italy and a very well written travel piece. Were I to be headed back there in the near future your advice would be very useful!

Anne Harrison (author) from Australia on December 13, 2014:

I hope you make it there, AliciaC - it is truly magical. Thanks for taking time to read my hub.

Linda Crampton from British Columbia, Canada on December 12, 2014:

Thank you for the tips and the lovely tour. Florence would be a wonderful place to visit, especially when following your guidelines!

Anne Harrison (author) from Australia on December 12, 2014:

Thank you for the above comments - a lot of dreaming and a little planning makes for a great trip. And you're absolutely right, travmaj; November is a great time to visit Europe

travmaj from australia on December 12, 2014:

Thanks for the memories of this beautiful city. Last time I visited in November and enjoyed some tranquility, well not so crowded. It's a glorious city to wander and explore.

Diane Knaus from Anne Arundel County, Maryland on December 11, 2014:

You have offered some good common sense tips for travel in Italy, or any town that is.

Thanks you, I hope you enjoyed your trip.

Waqas Ahmad from Lahore, Pakistan on December 11, 2014:

I always dream about traveling Italy, Spain and other European countries. Roma will also be a great city. Ponte vicchio and everything i will like to see it all.

Anne Harrison (author) from Australia on December 11, 2014:

Glad you enjoyed - hope I've inspired you to pack your bags!

Bill Holland from Olympia, WA on December 11, 2014:

Good suggestions and lovely pictures. Thanks for the tour.

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