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Gran Canaria: The Maspalomas Dunes

The author has travelled extensively and writes illustrated articles about his experiences, with advice on must-see sights.

Like a scene from the Sahara - but the Maspalomas beach is just metres away

Like a scene from the Sahara - but the Maspalomas beach is just metres away

Introduction

The Island of Gran Canaria is the third largest of the Canary Islands. It is one of the most popular destinations for European holidaymakers, particularly those looking for winter sunshine and alluring, attractive beaches. Beaches bring up images of warm seas and sand and lovely yellow sand dunes. Gran Canaria is also characterized by one of the most accessible dune landscapes on the face of the earth.

Maspalomas is the name of a resort in the south of Gran Canaria. The beach which fronts the resort is just one part of an extensive stretch of shoreline which is hugely popular with tourists as we shall see. Whilst 95% of the tourists will confine themselves to walking and sunbathing along that narrow area of beach next to the sea, the sand is not so limited in its extent. Just a few metres away, it rises up in a rolling series of 400 hectares (1,000 acres) of great dunes in area, and in certain places stretches more than a kilometre back from the shore.

This page describes the Maspalomas dunes, their appeal for tourists, and also their importance to the natural ecology of the region.

The author spent two days in the vicinity of the dunes in November 2014, and this article includes his personal experiences. All photos were taken during these days.

The western end of Playa de Maspalomas and the 56m (184 ft) Faro de Maspalomas  lighthouse in the resort of Meloneras. The lighthouse was built in 1886

The western end of Playa de Maspalomas and the 56m (184 ft) Faro de Maspalomas lighthouse in the resort of Meloneras. The lighthouse was built in 1886

The Town of Maspalomas

Maspalomas is believed to have been named after Spanish soldier Rodrigo Mas de Palomar, who once lived here, or possibly Francisco Palomar, a close friend of Alonso Fernandez de Lugo, who was a very important figure in the early conquests of the Canary Islands. The name may be ancient, but modern Maspalomas is very much a product of the tourist phenomenon and consists of several resorts of somewhat differing character. To the east is Playa del Inglés, a mecca for European holidaymakers and a lively centre with plenty to do in the daytime and a good, vibrant nightlife. Whilst to the west is Meloneras, a rather quieter, more upmarket neighbourhood with more low-level developments and fewer skyscraper hotels.

Meloneras and Playa del Inglés are both fronted by sandy beaches named after the two resorts, but effectively the beaches merge into just one continuous stretch, the central part of which is called Playa de Maspalomas. Meloneras and Playa del Inglés may be united by the beach, but behind this narrow strip, the resorts are separated by the vast expanse of the Maspalomas dunes. On this page, there is a map which shows the significant presence of the dunes within the layout of Maspalomas.

Facilities within Maspalomas include all the essentials one would expect in a modern tourist haven: hotels, bars, restaurants catering to all tastes, souvenir shops, and car hire services, etc.. Attractions are many. Within the town, there is the amusement park complex known as Holiday World with fairground rides, 10-pin bowling, and other entertainments. Less than 10 kms distant there is Aqualand Maspalomas, the largest water park in the Canary Islands, and Sioux City, a Wild West theme park. Slightly further north is Palmitos Park, a very popular attraction which features bird displays, an aquarium and dolphinarium, a butterfly house, and a cactus garden. There are also three golf courses in the region, for visitors to play on.

However, for all these modern attractions which draw tourists in their thousands, there is still nothing here which is as internationally famous as the naturally scenic landscape that is the Dunas de Maspalomas or the Maspalomas dunes.

Across the dunes to the east - the beach resort of Playa del Ingles

Across the dunes to the east - the beach resort of Playa del Ingles

Dunas Suites and Villas Resort

The author stayed in the Dunas Suites and Villas Resort in Meloneras, which is an expansive development of villas set in attractive gardens, with restaurants bars and swimming pools, and other facilities. Dunas Suites and Villas Resort is quite close to the beach—one can take a shuttle bus or walk about one kilometre to reach the shoreline. The Maspalomas dunes are even closer.

A constant stream of holiday makers along the beach from Meloneras to Playa del Ingles. And on the right is the first of the dunes at the Meloneras end of the beach

A constant stream of holiday makers along the beach from Meloneras to Playa del Ingles. And on the right is the first of the dunes at the Meloneras end of the beach

One of the great dunes rises above the beach of Playa de Maspalomas

One of the great dunes rises above the beach of Playa de Maspalomas

The Beaches of Maspalomas

The beaches are generally considered safe for all ages, particularly in front of the resorts where breakwaters give some protection against the waves, and lifeguards are present. Further away from the resorts, of course, there is rather less supervision and more care must be taken, particularly with young children, but the water near the shoreline is shallow.

Getting to the beaches is easy. Many hotels and villas are very close to the water's edge. For others which are more distant, bus services including the hotels' own shuttles, provide good access. When one arrives, the beach is typically Spanish, with gift shops and places to eat nearby, and with deckchairs and refreshment kiosks in the areas closest to the resorts.

The majority of tourists will naturally congregate near to the facilities. There is also the option of a 5 km (3 miles) walk along the beach all the way between Meloneras and Playa del Inglés is a popular thing to do, and some will seek a more isolated place to sunbathe midway between the resorts. Some who seek even more isolation will venture a little further back from the sea into the dunes.

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Wandering in the dunes

Wandering in the dunes

The Sand Dunes

The Dunes of Maspalomas are by no means uniform. Immediately behind the beach, the sand hills have all the appearance of a desert in miniature. There are places where almost as far as the eye can see, there is nothing to look at but the sand and the tell-tale footprints which show where others have walked before you. In low nooks and crannies where moisture has accumulated, there may be isolated pockets of scrubby vegetation, but otherwise very little growth. One can wander around these dunes and scarcely see anybody, although some carefree souls seem to love climbing to the very peaks of the dunes to make an exhibition of themselves for all the world to see, jumping up and down or waving their arms (as in the first photo on this page)! It is possible to lose one's sense of direction here, but it's hardly possible to truly get lost. If in doubt, just head towards the beach and then turn left or right!

The further one moves away from the seafront and away from the hotels of the Playa del Inglés resort, so dune vegetation begins to encroach more and more on to the sand. If one is walking barefoot, then entering this area may be the time to don sandals to avoid the pain of treading on sharp twigs or hard seeds and stones. There are designated paths through the scrubland, but in practice, people wander freely where they wish.

Most who wish to explore the dunes will come from the beach, but there is also easy access from the resorts and town of Maspalomas. To the north, the dunes also border the largest of the island golf courses. Describing these expansive dunes may make this sound like an enticing place to cross in beach buggies or similar vehicles, but that's not allowed. Although there is a camel riding option in one region of the dunes close to Meloneras, the only way to cross the entire stretch is on foot. And that's surely the way it should be. The Maspalomas dunes are a place to stroll with a lover or wander alone in quiet contemplation.

Here and there in sheltered locations in the dunes, vegetation grows

Here and there in sheltered locations in the dunes, vegetation grows

Naturism and Lesbian-Gay Tourists in Maspalomas

There is one aspect of Maspalomas which should be mentioned. Spain is very liberal regarding dressware in its coastal beach resorts. Topless bathing in Spain is permitted in most places, and nudism is legal and sometimes common away from the main resorts. There are specially designated nudist areas on some of the beaches, and the stretch between Meloneras and Playa del Inglés is no exception. The naturist section is close to the Playa del Inglés end of the beach, but to be honest they may be seen elsewhere, including walking along the shoreline and in secluded localities among the vegetation in the dunes. It's accepted. If you have children or for whatever reason would rather not be "exposed" to this, then stay by the main resorts.

There are warning signposts in place, but the "official" naturist section is self-evidently easy to recognise. There is also a lesbian/gay section of beach, though that isn't so obvious (and I wasn't looking for it!). Maspalomas is noted as being something of a Mecca for gay travelers. All kinds come to Maspalomas, and the great majority of visitors are families and heterosexual couples.

Maspalomas not only attracts human visitors in all their forms—it is also a haven for flora and fauna, as we shall see in the next section.

The Canary Island Palm Tree

The Canary Island Palm Tree

Wildlife and Flora

Sand dune environments of this kind are not common (except of course in the rather different desert landscapes of places like the Sahara) and their extreme nature makes it difficult for life to survive here. Porous shifting sand means that the surface layers are dry, and the loose nature of sand means little plant life can get established. The roots have nothing to hold on to, and the lack of soil deprives the plants of nutrients. Salt tolerance is also required, particularly closer to the shoreline. Consequently, those plants which do survive in places like the Maspalomas dunes tend to be quite specially adapted to this environment.

In certain areas, there are sheltered, lower valleys between the dunes, and areas away from the sea where the sand is shielded from the wind. Here, there is more opportunity for these plants to take secure root in damp, more stable ground. Once the best adapted species are well established, colonisation by the more generalised species can take place. This process can easily be seen at Maspalomas. Close to the seashore, the dunes are bare rolling hills of sand. Nothing else will be visible to the casual observer. Elsewhere pockets of vegetation may be seen, but the further one moves inland, so the more greenery appears as the sand begins to give away.

Characteristic plant species include succulent types such as Traganum moquinii and Tetraena fontanesii, the sea-grape (Zygophillum fontanesi), and a local species of the Tamarisk (Tamarix canariensis). There is also the Canary Island Palm Phoenix canariensis. Most who visit are unlikely to see many animals. Fauna is sparse, and those smaller species that do live here tend to remain sheltered from the sun and from predators under the low growing vegetation. But there is a lagoon called "La Charca" at the western end of the dune complex, and this lagoon - once part of a salt marsh which has been reclaimed - is an important refuge for many species of migratory birds, en-route to and from the continent of Africa.

Despite the apparently barren nature of so much of the Maspalomas dunes, the environment and its importance to those species of animal and plant which can only survive in this kind of habitat has been recognised. The dunes were designated a national park in 1994 specifically to protect these species from the high-octane excesses of modern civilisation, and the modern resorts which are so close by.

The dunes and the gradual encroachment of vegetation

The dunes and the gradual encroachment of vegetation

One of the more characteristic early colonisers - I believe this fleshy, low-growing, grey-blue succulent to be Traganum moquinii, though there are also other similar species

One of the more characteristic early colonisers - I believe this fleshy, low-growing, grey-blue succulent to be Traganum moquinii, though there are also other similar species

A kestrel was the only representative of the local wildlife to hang around long enough for me to take a photo. She proved to be surprisingly tame, this photo was taken from less than three metres in distance. Why so tame? It may be because she knew perfectly well she could escape at any moment, but soon after I took this, she grabbed a lizard and flew off with it. My guess is the kestrel had been hunting it for some time and the knowledge that a meal was in the offering proved to be irresistible, encouraging her to put up with my close presence!

A female kestrel keeps a wary eye on the photographer, whilst hunting a small lizard

A female kestrel keeps a wary eye on the photographer, whilst hunting a small lizard

In Summary

There are dunes of sand to be found all around the world, and in surprising variety - coastal dunes, inland dunes, high altitude dunes. From the beautiful orange-red dunes of the Simpson Desert in Australia to the bleached gypsum of the White Sands National Monument in New Mexico. From the great Namib Desert to the parched and inhospitably hot Death Valley, California, and the giant 500 m high dunes of Badain Jaran in North China.

One thing that all of these have in common is their remoteness or their extremeness of climate. The majority of travelers from Europe or America will have to go far to see these natural wonders, and in some cases prepare thoroughly for the adventure. Maspalomas, on the other hand, can be prepared for by donning a swimming costume and sauntering down from the poolside bar. The dunes here may be neither the most dramatic nor the biggest in the world, but for any casual enthusiast who just wishes to see an extraordinary, natural sand dune environment a mere few metres from one of the world's most relaxing tourist destinations, it can't be beat.

Interactive map showing the location of the resorts of Meloneras and Playa del Ingles and the Maspalomas Dunes

More Gran Canaria Info

The Mountains of Gran Canaria

The mountains of Gran Canaria offer a satisfying contrast to the beaches which attract tourists to this Canary Island. This page investigates the beautiful landscapes and cultural history to be found in these mountains

gran-canaria-maspalomas

© 2015 Greensleeves Hubs

I'd Love to Hear Your Comments. Thanks, Alun

Liz Westwood from UK on August 14, 2018:

This is the kind of article I could have done with reading before my visit to this area a few years ago. Great information and photos

Greensleeves Hubs (author) from Essex, UK on May 07, 2015:

cam8510, Thanks Chris very much. I've just taken a look at Google images of the National Lakeshore - it looks like a really nice location indeed. Cheers.

Chris Mills from Traverse City, MI on May 07, 2015:

Great photos and information. I live near a National Lakeshore in Michigan where the dunes stretch for over thirty miles along Lake Michigan. I enjoy hiking on dunes, so Maspalomas would be a good fit. Thanks for the ideas and information.

Greensleeves Hubs (author) from Essex, UK on May 07, 2015:

Kristen Howe; Thanks so much Kristen for the votes and comment. I would certainly recommend a visit! Cheers, Alun

Kristen Howe from Northeast Ohio on May 07, 2015:

Alun, this was another one of your beautiful travelogue hub on Gran Canaria. It sounds like a lovely place to visit and travel someday. Voted up for beautiful!

Greensleeves Hubs (author) from Essex, UK on February 13, 2015:

Writer Fox; Thanks Writer Fox. I've been to three of the Canary Islands now, and I honestly find it difficult to choose between them. Each have their own appeals. It's always good to hear from you, and thanks for the votes. Alun

Greensleeves Hubs (author) from Essex, UK on February 13, 2015:

AliciaC; Thanks very much Linda. The Canary Islands offer so much to the European tourist who wants the comforts of home, as well as the usual attractions of a beach vacation, but who also likes to explore a little and see some different sights. There's plenty of character and great scenery to enjoy in each of the islands. Appreciate your comment. Alun

Writer Fox from the wadi near the little river on February 08, 2015:

What an interesting place! I love reading about your travel adventures, Alun. The Island of Gran Canaria looks like a great vacation spot. Enjoyed and voted up.

Linda Crampton from British Columbia, Canada on February 07, 2015:

This is a very interesting hub containing lovely photos, Alun. What a great place to visit! I've never been to the Canary Islands, so I enjoy reading your informative descriptions very much.

Greensleeves Hubs (author) from Essex, UK on February 06, 2015:

MsDora; Thanks Dora. Appreciated. The whole town is tourist-orientated. For my taste, Playa del Inglés is a little too lively whilst Meloneras is rather more sedate and relaxed, and less commercial, which is partly why I chose to stay in this western end of Maspalomas.

But both resorts give easy access both to the countryside and mountains of Central Gran Canaria, and to the beach and the lovely and distinctive dune landscape which is the focus of this article. Cheers, Alun

Dora Weithers from The Caribbean on February 06, 2015:

Hadn't I seen your pictures of sand dunes and the beaches together, I couldn't imagine that they fit so beautifully. Thanks for the historical and cultural facts on Maspalomas. Voted Up!

Greensleeves Hubs (author) from Essex, UK on February 05, 2015:

bdegiulio; Thanks so much Bill. Very much appreciate what you say. The points you make are exactly the main theme I was aiming for - to illustrate a landscape - seemingly remote and desert-like in appearance - which is nonetheless so accessible. There are greater dune systems, but surely none which can be visited in such comfort by ordinary tourists!

I hope to get two more pages about Gran Canaria published before the end of the month. I was fortunate to make several trips abroad last year, and it's been difficult to keep getting the articles published promptly after returning! Cheers, Alun

Greensleeves Hubs (author) from Essex, UK on February 05, 2015:

CatherineGiordano; Thanks Catherine, and cheers for the compliment about the photos. The first photo of the girl spreading her arms out, was preceded by one of another girl in the far distance who was having great fun leaping and jumping around at the top of one dune. Even cartwheeling. After seeing her, I only had a few seconds to compose a photo before she stopped - it would have been a great photo - had it been in focus :(

Greensleeves Hubs (author) from Essex, UK on February 05, 2015:

Romanian; Thank you Nicu. I've become very fond of the Canary Islands; in such a small group of islands there are many varied and beautiful sights to see, and Gran Canaria - with its mountains, beaches, and the Maspalomas sand dunes - is no exception. Cheers, Alun

Bill De Giulio from Massachusetts on February 05, 2015:

Hey Alun. What a thorough job of bringing this fascinating place to us. I had no idea that these dunes existed in the Canary Islands. In some of your photos, which are wonderful, you get the sense that you could be in the middle of a giant desert in a remote location somewhere. In a way it combines the best of both worlds, a wonderful beach resort with the unique and interesting landscape of a desert.

Great job Alun, I look forward to reading about the rest of your holiday.

Catherine Giordano from Orlando Florida on February 05, 2015:

Tanks for taking me on vacation with you and filling me in about a very beautiful place. Your pictures are beautiful.

Nicu from Oradea, Romania on February 05, 2015:

Great images, I love that island. I didn't imagine that there is a such beautiful place so close to Europe.

Greensleeves Hubs (author) from Essex, UK on February 05, 2015:

Ericdierker; Thanks very much. When deciding on Gran Canaria as a holiday destination, I could have chosen any one of half a dozen resorts. The reason I chose Maspalomas was primarily because it had this extra appeal of the dune landscape - something I had never seen before. I'm glad I did! Cheers.

Greensleeves Hubs (author) from Essex, UK on February 05, 2015:

srsddn; Thank you very much. I am sure there must be dune locations in India too, given that your country is so large and varied in environment. But to find such an area so easily accessible as Maspalomas is rare in the world. Cheers for the 'vote up'. Alun

Greensleeves Hubs (author) from Essex, UK on February 05, 2015:

Jasmeetk; Thank you Jasmeet. There is something very tranquil and appealing about rolling hills whether they be of soil and vegetation or of sand, and the Maspalomas Dunes are certainly a sight I will always remember:)

Eric Dierker from Spring Valley, CA. U.S.A. on February 05, 2015:

A great hub about a very interesting place. You make it so I want to travel there and yet I had never heard of it before, great job.

srsddn from Dehra Dun, India on February 05, 2015:

ALUN, Beautiful! Beach and Dune is a curious combination. It is interesting to leave footprints. Thanks for sharing. Voted up!

Jasmeet Kaur from India on February 05, 2015:

such a beautiful place. Hope I will travel there soon!!